Lesson Six - Leash Manners

[dolmod]

Sixth chapter in the DOL Training Guide: "Leash Manners".

No debating which technique is better or worse, just simple step by step guides from members for members.

Videos welcome.

[Greenmagick]

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZarFGdcj8s"]YouTube - Seattle Dog Training - Silky Leash Training. DoggieZen.com[/ame]

[Meatos]

Here is a post I made awhile back on teaching loose leash walking using a clicker (will also work with a verbal marker, such as YES).

For leash walking, I would start it off really simple. Stand in one spot with your pup on the leash and hold the leash in your fist, grounded at your belly button. Your pup will try pulling in every single direction. Stand firm and every time your pup relaxes on the leash or takes a step towards you, or even looks at you, click and reward. It won't be long before he is staying right in your "bubble." Even if it does take you all day (which it won't), stick it out and hold your ground!!

When he is consistently staying in your bubble, start taking one big step in random directions. Click and reward when your pup follows you and stays in your bubble. When he is consistently staying with you for the big steps, hold the treat at your waist and take 2-3 normal steps. Click for every step that he stays with you and reward at the end of the 2-3 steps.

If you are consistent with this, you can start expanding the intervals for clicking. Start clicking/rewarding every 5 steps, every 10 steps, etc. when he is right at your side.

If he pulls in another direction, back up a few steps really quickly and click/reward when he is back at your side, then take it back a notch to where you know he will be consistent and progress again.

Practice this in different areas of the house and backyard. Progress to the driveway and then maybe start walking a few houses down your street and back to the house. Before you know it, you'll be walking around the block with pride.

Remember to take it super slow - leash walking is highly stimulating for a dog and every step the dog takes forward reinforces whatever he was doing to earn that step. If he pulls, that is rewarding for him because it gets him closer to what he is pulling towards and every step he takes while pulling takes away from the loose leash training you are doing. You need him to learn that the world is equally rewarding (if not even more rewarding!) when he is right at your side.

[ouesi]

This is more for fixing problems with leash walking than teaching it.
1. Make like a tree.
Pulling on the leash is self-rewarding – dog pulls to get to where he wants to be and is thus rewarded for having pulled. If you “make like a tree” and don’t budge until the dog acknowledges you, he will eventually learn that to get to where he wants to be only if the leash is slack.
That said, I must not make a good tree, because I have had little success with this method. It does seem to work better with puppies, but when the dog in question is 100+ pounds of excited teenager, “make like a tree” turns in to “dragging a log” really fast.

2. About turn
We call this “this way” – basically, when the dog starts bee-lining towards a goal and forgets about the human on the other end of the leash, you say “this way” in a happy voice and go in a different direction – usually 180 degrees, but a simple turn might work too.
The other benefit of this maneuver is that the dog starts seeing you as addled and unpredictable and he’d best stay near you in case you veer off course.
The downside is that some younger dogs think this is a splendid game and then you start getting fun behaviors like jumping up on you, gnawing on the leash and such.

3. Positive interruptor
All a positive interruptor is, is something you say that brings the dog’s focus back on you. Much in the same way you would use “no” or “hey”, except a positive interruptor is paired with reward instead of a reprimand.
Our positive interruptor is simply saying the dog’s name. Don’t forget the power of name recognition. In our house, we build up the dog’s name to mean wonderful things. Lots and lots of pairing the dog’s name with food rewards, pets, etc., and eventually you get a dog who at the very least will give you an ear flick if you say their name, but more likely, a dog who gets right in your face the second they hear their name.
So how does this work on leash? Dog fixates on that turd that MUST be sniffed or the cute poodle who MUST be visited, and you break the spell by saying the dog’s name. You’ll only get a second of attention at first so make sure to make good use of that attention to shove a yummy treat under their nose or otherwise distract from the cute poodle.
You could also use “leave it” in this type of situation. Figure out what works best for each dog.

4. Leash wrap
Doesn’t really teach anything IME, but a good tool to have. Say you’re out and about with your well-trained dog who only wears a flat buckle. Out of the blue, someone lets a herd of sheep loose and you discover that your great dane is apparently part australian shepherd. “Make like a tree” is turning in to uproot the tree by the roots, and the positive interruptor is falling on deaf ears, what do you do? Enter the leash wrap. Take your leash, and wrap it around the dog’s chest and back up through the collar. It gives you humane, instant control of a large dog.
And now that you know sheep are an is an issue, you go home and work on proofing that aspect of training.


I’ll try to get some video this afternoon and edit this post to add the visuals.


Obviously the easiest thing to do is teach leash manners right off the bat when the pup is young. Breez learned at 8 weeks that pulling on the leash is not an option, and other than some teenage brain-be-gone moments, she internalized that lesson well.
But many of us end up with adult rescues, and all of the above “tricks” can work well depending on the dog or situation.

[Titan_87]

When teaching leash manners to a puppy or dog it is best to start with a buckle collar and consistently teach them that pulling stops all forward movement. What this means is that EVERYTIME my dog begins to pull, I stop moving. Pretty soon the dog begins to learn that pressure on the collar means slow down and stop pulling. If this is used consistently, the dog will have no problem learning to back off of pressure rather than pull harder against it.

There are several tools on the market that help use this method with larger dogs. With any of these tools it is important to get them properly fitted and a lesson on how to use them correctly from an experienced trainer.

Head collar (Gentle Leader, Halti)
This is a great tool that gives you the maximum amount of control over your dog. It is designed to work like a halter on horse with the idea that by controlling the head of an animal, you can control it's entire body. There is a reason why these are used on 1,000lb animals with great success, but to be honest, very few dogs actually need this level of control. I like to use these for dogs that are reactive, very excitable or can physically pull their owners down.

To train a dog with a head halter, you follow the exact steps listed above. Hold the leash at a set point and just stop walking if your dog pulls. You should never jerk on a head halter and you should never let your dog run to the end of his leash and get his head jerked back. There is a risk of neck injury, but if you use it correctly, that risk is minimized.

Easy Walk Harness/Any harness with front connection for leash
A traditional harness where the leash hooks on the back of the dog will actually encourage pulling (think sled dog). A harness that has a front connection for the leash like the Easy Walk harness will help to discourage pulling by causing the dog to walk at an angle when they are pulling. The dog figures out that it is uncomfortable to do that and quickly stops pulling. It also puts a downward pressure on the dogs shoulder blades that adds to the discomfort.

Following the steps listed above (stopping when the dog pulls, walking forward when the leash is loose) you can quickly reduce the amount a dog pulls. Hold the leash at a set point and do not jerk on the lead.

Prong/Pinch Collar
There are advantages and disadvantages to using a prong collar, but in the right circumstance they are a great tool. They should NEVER be used for a dog that is fearful or aggressive in any circumstance as they can exasperate those reactions. The collar itself should be fit snuggly and high on the dogs neck using the smallest links possible. The smaller the links, the less possibility of damage or injury to the dog.

When the dog begins to pull you can either stop moving like listed above or give a SLIGHT correction by flicking your wrist backwards. If you need to use anything more than a slight correction, you need to train your dog where there are fewer distractions and slowly increase the level of distraction as your dog is able to handle.

Choke Collar
I very rarely recommend a choke collar when teaching a dog not to pull because it is very easy for dogs to pull through a choke to the point of strangulation or trachea damage. If you decide to use a choke, consult a trainer to ensure proper fit and placement.

[Wendyearwood]

SOD (Save our Dane) and me

I have inherited our Great Dane Grandpup (17 months). She is wonderful and oh so smart! We really have only one issue and that is leash walking. There are two yards in either direction of our house that we MUST pass by every day and those two lots absolutely drive her literally insane. We see nothing and she will rear up like a horse and literally drag us to get to whatever she is sensing. I have been working with her in our yard with a clicker and shes wonderful. But take her past those homes and its all over but my crying. get her past those yards and for the most part shes fine till we have to pass by on the return trip. I just finished with 3 months of PT due to her seeing a squirrel. I need help! I've read articles, watched videos and took her to training class. Shes amazing on all other levels but this. Any advice??

[ezskanken]

How do you discourage fighting the leash, as in backing up when the leash is on? He refuses to go anywhere with the leash on. But as soon as I take it off he's right by my side for the most part. I mean I can run up and down the street and he's right there with me. Soon as the colar goes on he sit's and refuses to move. Help please. I keep my pockets stacked with training treats as well.

[melissa.lynn]

How do you discourage fighting the leash, as in backing up when the leash is on? He refuses to go anywhere with the leash on. But as soon as I take it off he's right by my side for the most part. I mean I can run up and down the street and he's right there with me. Soon as the colar goes on he sit's and refuses to move. Help please. I keep my pockets stacked with training treats as well.

leave his collar and leash on him for periods of time at home. Let him run around with it dragging on the floor behind him. He will get used to the weight and feeling of it!

[kshrew]

What is the best age to start leash training? I have heard of keeping pup on a leash while in the house to help with potty training... Thoughts on how this affects leash training?

[SuzanneRM82]

What is the best age to start leash training? I have heard of keeping pup on a leash while in the house to help with potty training... Thoughts on how this affects leash training?

Ideally he should have the basic concept, or at least have been introduced to it, before you even get him. Otherwise, start working on it ASAP. I tethered both my boys to me while potty training, and it didn't seem to really have an effect one way or the other, but they were both pretty good with basic leash skills already.

[MyZoo]

I'm def no expert on this subject but I would say as soon as you bring them home start using a leash, but I don't think I would let him run around with it on...doesn't seem like a good idea for him to get used to doing as he pleases while on leash

[hdpartsman0032]

Begin leash training the first day he's home. I also tethered both of my girls to me, and when they weren't tied to me they always had the leash on in the house for a quick grab if needed. Heck, Celle still wears hers when I need her to be mindful or if I need for her to stay close to me and not bother hubby.

[beaniehemmingway]

My main problem is that Frank has absolutely no interest in food of any sort (died food, raw, hot dogs, cheese etc) once he is out of the house.

He literally steps out of the door and becomes a scent obsessed drool monster ... luckily he isn't too bad on the leash but I've still to find something motivational to reward him with for good behavior in future.

[hdpartsman0032]

How about a squeaky or tug toy, a ball, or exuberant pats and hugs .... Celle will do almost anything for a piece of cat food kibble, or a face scratch.

[21softballstar]

I've been working on Willow and her heeling more. Mainly because I'm just sick and tired of having my arm yanked off. I've done the walk ahead, turn around when she tugs thing. Now all I have to do is turn around a few times and she sticks by me. That's only when I am walking alone with her. As soon as I walk with another person, she tugs, even if I try and correct her. I've walked with my dad and his Dane before, and she instantly stops listening to everything I tell her and tugs, tugs, tugs. She always wants to be in front of Bella and everybody else. Everything I have taught her--out the window.

What can I do about this? She understands walking good when it's only ME, but as soon as I'm only with ONE person... I don't think I could convince my family when I walk with them to constantly turn around whenever Willow tugs :P