Puppy Training - Nipping/Bite Inhibition

[EmoAbstracts]

The scruffing is certainly a last resort, and I'd heard positve things about the 'No bite' method that included either a bop (enough to startle, apparently) and the hand over the mouth. I much prefer to place my palm to his nose and push him away.

I think that's a part of my problem, indeed. He takes this as play and my husband is equally as guilty. He used to get on the floor with him and 'play wrestle' but I've since told him that that roughness teaches Tank it's a-okay to be rough back!

Tank has been with us for a month. I know for a fact he was released from his mother too soon, which is probably fueling the issue here. While not particularly HAPPY about it, I fell in love with him and accepted him into my home. I won't mention the name of the breeder but my experience her despite this was actually a very good one.

I traveled to her home, and was allowed to explore the surroundings and environment he and all SEVEN of his brothers lived in. I met the mother (oh my gosh, she's such a SWEETHEART who rolled over to let us pet her belly) and the Daddy (who was 160+lbs, with a humongous bark). We spent time with the puppies outside, playing and getting to know their personalities.

Tank is my very first Great Dane! We've not yet explored walks simply because the leash law isn't well enforced (but encouraged) and he hasn't had his second set of vaccinations. The socialization has been limited to family and friends, since researching has said '100 people by 4 months' is a good rule of thumb.

I may be worrying too much and being too strict. I tend to be that way with my kids as well. Tank may take this as uncertainty and be using this as a reason to take on the dominant role. Also yes, I've read through this thread as well as the bite inhibition.

This breeder didn't happen to be in Lima, Ohio did it?

[Rae]

The scruffing is certainly a last resort, and I'd heard positve things about the 'No bite' method that included either a bop (enough to startle, apparently) and the hand over the mouth. I much prefer to place my palm to his nose and push him away.

I think that's a part of my problem, indeed. He takes this as play and my husband is equally as guilty. He used to get on the floor with him and 'play wrestle' but I've since told him that that roughness teaches Tank it's a-okay to be rough back!

Tank has been with us for a month. I know for a fact he was released from his mother too soon, which is probably fueling the issue here. While not particularly HAPPY about it, I fell in love with him and accepted him into my home. I won't mention the name of the breeder but my experience her despite this was actually a very good one.

I traveled to her home, and was allowed to explore the surroundings and environment he and all SEVEN of his brothers lived in. I met the mother (oh my gosh, she's such a SWEETHEART who rolled over to let us pet her belly) and the Daddy (who was 160+lbs, with a humongous bark). We spent time with the puppies outside, playing and getting to know their personalities.

Tank is my very first Great Dane! We've not yet explored walks simply because the leash law isn't well enforced (but encouraged) and he hasn't had his second set of vaccinations. The socialization has been limited to family and friends, since researching has said '100 people by 4 months' is a good rule of thumb.

I may be worrying too much and being too strict. I tend to be that way with my kids as well. Tank may take this as uncertainty and be using this as a reason to take on the dominant role. Also yes, I've read through this thread as well as the bite inhibition.

[EmoAbstracts]

Well, most likely by using really loud voices, scruffing, and hitting you are turning a normal puppy issue into a fight. He is not trying to be dominate, he is being a puppy!

How long have you had him? He is so very very young still.

Did you read through the thread? The best is to end all fun when he starts nipping. Turn around, walk away, etc.

I would HIGHLY suggest reading the following book (link is to the free pdf version.

Before You Get Your Puppy

After You Get Your Puppy

Yeah that's a different direction than where I'm going...I haven't done any physical correction or angry voices, etc. I think he's too young for that kind of thing and I think hands should be for treats, loves and cuddles and don't want him to be scared of hands.

I have to admit that sometimes it gets really trying and I want to be more angry and physical but I don't allow myself to do it as I understand the dog is doing what he was born to do and its up to me to show him differently - I can't physically punish him for that.

I am hoping that once we start more rigorous training next week (and I put him in doggy day care every day) he will be more adjusted and more exercised and I might see a change.

FYI - today I tried the "walk out of the room and close the door and leave him there alone for 30 sec. each time he bites" method. I counted 39 times I did this in less than 45 min. Each time I came back into the room he was sitting all proud of himself in the middle of the room and immediately went right back at my pant legs. I think all I did was train him that each time I leave, I come back in 30 sec.

[Greenmagick]

Well, most likely by using really loud voices, scruffing, and hitting you are turning a normal puppy issue into a fight. He is not trying to be dominate, he is being a puppy!

How long have you had him? He is so very very young still.

Did you read through the thread? The best is to end all fun when he starts nipping. Turn around, walk away, etc.

I would HIGHLY suggest reading the following book (link is to the free pdf version.

Before You Get Your Puppy

After You Get Your Puppy

[Rae]

I actually have the same problem with Tank, my 8 week old Great Dane.

He's kind of 'aggressive' and it's hard for my children to even play with him. He gets plenty of exercise with frequent trips outside and we've even begun socialization.

Living in a small town makes it hard to find a puppy trainer or preschool. I'm nervous I'm doing the wrong things. He has several different Kong varieties with the both the biscuits and paste. Several soft chew toys. We rotate them to keep him interested.

Tank is breaking skin; his biting loses it's playfulness when we reprimand him by yelping 'Ow' when his mouthing gets too hard, a bop on the nose and a 'No bite' when he's beginning to get rambunctious with his biting, and then the scruff-grabbing when he's intentionally being too rough. He's usually snarling at this point.

Both my husband and I use very strong voices and body language but he still seems to have a dominance issue, despite most of our play turning into times where he must re-establish we ARE the pack leaders by rolling him onto his back. He DOES cry/whine when we do this and continue to do so until he's calmed, which we encourage by massaging his neck. Once he's calm with licking/kisses, we reward him with a treat.

I'm fully aware he's only 8 weeks old and it takes time and consistency but goodness, he's so stubborn. Is there possibly something I'm not doing that I should be?

What worked for you, especially those of you who had stubborn Danes.

[EmoAbstracts]

How old is Berkley and how much exercise does he get?

He is 9 weeks old this week. I think sometimes I exercise him too much. We get up at 6am and before work we play and do a morning walk (very short). At lunch we do more play time in the yard and then a longer afternoon walk. When I get home from work it's lots of indoor and outdoor play and a longer evening walk (about 15 min). Also 3x week he goes to doggy day care and every Monday has puppy preschool for an hour.

[ouesi]

How old is Berkley and how much exercise does he get?

[EmoAbstracts]

Have you tried a Kong toy smeared or filled with something delicious? It may be enough to divert his attention. Rather than yelping, a firm"Ah ah" or "no bite" or even a growl, surprising them into breaking contact then 2 seconds later give the kong to re-direct onto. Or a Pet corrector (compressed air) - biting means a loud whooshing sound, again startling them to break contact then reward after 2 seconds of no contact. I think the thing is that the reward for not biting has to be even more interesting than chewing YOU.

I have tried a Kong toy; a Kong toy frozen; a Kong toy stuffed with peanut butter and a Kong toy stuffed with his favorite treats. They only keep his attention for about 20-30 seconds before he's back at me. I have not tried the compressed air or squiring with water. I also haven't tried the yucky spray that they're not supposed to like the taste of but I feel like if I did that I'd have to take a bath in it.

[Jade75]

Have you tried a Kong toy smeared or filled with something delicious? It may be enough to divert his attention. Rather than yelping, a firm"Ah ah" or "no bite" or even a growl, surprising them into breaking contact then 2 seconds later give the kong to re-direct onto. Or a Pet corrector (compressed air) - biting means a loud whooshing sound, again startling them to break contact then reward after 2 seconds of no contact. I think the thing is that the reward for not biting has to be even more interesting than chewing YOU.

[Dozerboy007]

I have one similar to your Berkely. Nothing works! I am about at my witts end. Puppy teeth are sharp!

[EmoAbstracts]

What if Nothing Works?

So, I've read the articles, the books, the forums...watched the videos, tv shows, etc. Nothing is working with my Great Dane pup Berkeley. He is a big nipper/biter. This is all he wants to do when we play in the house. It has gotten to the point where I nearly dread sitting on the floor to play with him because he refuses to focus on anything other than my feet, hands, arms and crotch.

If I try to distract him with a toy, he just goes straight for whatever hand/fingers is holding the toy. If I just stand up and look him in the eyes and ignore his actions he just starts biting at my ankles/socks/pant legs. If I turn my back and ignore him he starts biting/chewing my shirt or belt. If I yelp or make a loud noise when he bites, he gets excited and nips at my face. If I get up and leave the room and close the door he might whine for 20 sec and then start chewing on something in the room like the curtains or the molding. If I put some coins in a coffee-can and shake them, he thinks its a game and starts going after my hand.

If I am sitting on the floor trying to get him to focus on a toy and he actually does manage to play with it, he always climbs into my lap to chew his toys and won't stay anywhere else - which after about 30-60 seconds always leads to him chewing/biting legs, pants, shirts, crotch, etc. Sometimes he'll bury his head into my crotch and try to bite the zipper or drawstrings and if I try to distract him or move him away he will get angry and growl and try to nip at my hands.

Can someone please help me with any ideas?!?!?

[Janiejane]

yeah if he nips at me during play i usually stand up or i turn my back towards him. Which I believe he is getting the hang of since he will stop immediately and try to play differently. He is learning fairly quickly which is nice. He actually hasnt nipped in about 3 days. And his mouthing has gotten better!

[Titan_87]

The best thing to do in any behavioral modification is to look at the motivation behind the behavior and then do the exact opposite of what the puppy wants to happen. This will cause the puppy to realize that their chosen method of getting attention no longer works allowing you to step in to reward them when they act politely. Since nipping is an attention seeking behavior the best thing to do is to give them absolutely no attention, including negative attention. Before the behavior modification steps are in place the equation is: nipping=fun reaction from person

If puppy nips me during play, I'm just going to stand up and ignore the puppy until they calm down. If this doesn't stop the puppy and he continues to nip at my pant leg, I will get on the other side of a physical barrier (door, baby gate, etc) until he is calm. Once he is calm, I will encourage play again. Now the equation has changed: nipping=end of play, calm behavior=play continues. It is important to reward the replacement calm behavior otherwise the puppy may develop a new rude way of asking for attention.

[Janiejane]

Did I read correctly that your pup came home at 6 weeks? If so, this is going to make your job all the harder.

I highly recommend you read cover to cover the booklet "AFTER you get your puppy" available here as a free PDF: http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/AF...ur%20Puppy.pdf

Try to remember that your pup will need consistency of rules, and before you teach him NOT to bite, you have to teach him HOW and WHAT to bite. He can only bite hands, and he can only use minimal pressure. He is actually primed right now to understand this as that's what his littermates would be teaching him right about now. Any time he breaks the play "rules", walk away. Close a door behind you if you need to, but walk away. Social isolation sends a hugely clear message at this age.

Once your pup has learned how to bite, then you can work on never biting at all. But that is a ways down the road.
It is important to teach pups this way so that they do have experience with controlling their mouths and bite pressure, even when excited. This will lead to a safer dog in the long run. ALL dogs will bite under the right circumstances, and its the dogs who have learned how to control themselves who do the least amount of damage.

I would also recommend looking in to puppy classes for not just your pup, but the whole family, and puppy socials where your guy can learn appropriate play from other similarly aged puppies.

Yes I got him at 6 weeks. He is now 10 weeks and we are doing the puppy classes. I believe they have a new one starting in the beginning of March.

[ouesi]

those are good tips. I need to kick the habit of my puppy mouthing me. cuz he tries to snap at faces when he gets too involved in play. he does calm down when i ignore him though.

Did I read correctly that your pup came home at 6 weeks? If so, this is going to make your job all the harder.

I highly recommend you read cover to cover the booklet "AFTER you get your puppy" available here as a free PDF: http://www.dogstardaily.com/files/AF...ur%20Puppy.pdf

Try to remember that your pup will need consistency of rules, and before you teach him NOT to bite, you have to teach him HOW and WHAT to bite. He can only bite hands, and he can only use minimal pressure. He is actually primed right now to understand this as that's what his littermates would be teaching him right about now. Any time he breaks the play "rules", walk away. Close a door behind you if you need to, but walk away. Social isolation sends a hugely clear message at this age.

Once your pup has learned how to bite, then you can work on never biting at all. But that is a ways down the road.
It is important to teach pups this way so that they do have experience with controlling their mouths and bite pressure, even when excited. This will lead to a safer dog in the long run. ALL dogs will bite under the right circumstances, and its the dogs who have learned how to control themselves who do the least amount of damage.

I would also recommend looking in to puppy classes for not just your pup, but the whole family, and puppy socials where your guy can learn appropriate play from other similarly aged puppies.