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Puppy Training - Nipping/Bite Inhibition

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  • tripps
    replied
    Originally posted by Greenmagick View Post
    Well, most likely by using really loud voices, scruffing, and hitting you are turning a normal puppy issue into a fight. He is not trying to be dominate, he is being a puppy!

    How long have you had him? He is so very very young still.

    Did you read through the thread? The best is to end all fun when he starts nipping. Turn around, walk away, etc.

    I would HIGHLY suggest reading the following book (link is to the free pdf version.

    Before You Get Your Puppy

    After You Get Your Puppy
    Very good read!! I just read the Before, next is the after. Since I have about 10months to go I should be well studied.

    Leave a comment:


  • Raising Coda
    replied
    I like the bite inhibition approach best, but I'm wondering about the time frame. How quickly should you progress through the stages: tell pup hard bite hurts, tell pup soft bite hurts, and then tell pup any tooth contact hurts. My puppy is still teething (4 months), but she gets that hard bites hurt, though she still has to be corrected sometimes when she's got me with her canines, and now I've told her that even softer biting hurts. She is almost beginning to move to the last stage herself at times. I act like it hurts when it doesn't quite, and then she will remove her teeth and lick my hand. But I don't want to skip through it too fast, because she still doesn't have it all down perfectly. Including that sometimes she gets too playful and jumps and bites hard. So for those who have used this bite inhibition technique, how long do you spend on each stage of it?

    Leave a comment:


  • BerlinTheDane
    replied
    Originally posted by jengily View Post
    Quick Question -

    Saw something on tv about correcting nippers.
    Take frozen butter and smear it on the back of your hand.
    When dog licks, praise - this way he will associate skin with licking and not biting...

    Thoughts?
    Interesting! I may try this. I don't have too many problems with our pup, but this would be good for the therapy training trick! Hmmm... thanks!

    Leave a comment:


  • DPU
    replied
    I don't see how the dog would not continue to nip/bite, the behavior is still an option. To change the behavior from beng pleasurable, it has to become unpleasurable and so something negative has to be introduced and that something negative does not have to be physical but merely a predictor of a consequence.

    In my house, there is not biting, nipping, or mouthing of any human. With other dogs in play, yes.

    Leave a comment:


  • jengily
    replied
    Originally posted by ouesi View Post
    Silky smooth hands?

    Seems like overkill to me. I want the dog to learn BITE inhibition, as in how hard (or not) to bite. I could care less about what they do with their tongue.

    And we already have alien issues with the butter in our house as it is:
    http://www.dolforum.com/forum/showth...=aliens&page=5

    lmaoooo! Better than Olay!

    thanks Ouesi - I appreciate it!

    Leave a comment:


  • ouesi
    replied
    Originally posted by jengily View Post
    Quick Question -

    Saw something on tv about correcting nippers.
    Take frozen butter and smear it on the back of your hand.
    When dog licks, praise - this way he will associate skin with licking and not biting...

    Thoughts?
    Silky smooth hands?

    Seems like overkill to me. I want the dog to learn BITE inhibition, as in how hard (or not) to bite. I could care less about what they do with their tongue.

    And we already have alien issues with the butter in our house as it is:
    http://www.dolforum.com/forum/showth...=aliens&page=5

    Leave a comment:


  • jengily
    replied
    Quick Question -

    Saw something on tv about correcting nippers.
    Take frozen butter and smear it on the back of your hand.
    When dog licks, praise - this way he will associate skin with licking and not biting...

    Thoughts?

    Leave a comment:


  • Dozerboy007
    replied
    Dpzer and I have recently started puppy school. I have learned a ton of invaluable information and he is learning so much. One of the Great things about puppy school is the free play. He is learning to control the pressure of his bite, because his other puppy friends won't play if he isn't being nice. I have learned that if I say OUCH really loud and pull my hands away that he stops. We take a short break with what we are doing and then resume. If he does this again, we repeat the process.The key to this is to be persitant. Dozer is not allowed to mouth or bite anyones hands for any reason. It is too hard to figure out when it is ok to be mouthy and when it isn't. If he is allowed to chew on mom's hands, he won't know that he can't chew on grandma's. It just seems to make sense. Dozer is also a pants grabber. When he does this we stop all movement, and tell him NO! ( or whatever command you use) and then we make him sit. I have learned so much in class and it really has made a huge difference in our lives. Dozer was also very little (4 weeks) when we got him, and he missed out on the critical littermate stages. By taking him to play with other dogs his age, he is slowly learning these things which is amazing to sit and watch. He has become a class favorite. And I couldn't be prouder!

    Leave a comment:


  • Stormmedic
    replied
    Storm is 7 weeks and he tries to play tug or war with my kids pants. They are 6. They tell him a firm "no" and most of the time he will quit. He bit one of them the other day and my son starting crying just more scared then hurt. It made the dog quit really quick and he went and layed down and then came and loved on him. A little cry might work. It worked for my dog.

    Leave a comment:


  • Marick
    replied
    Our Scottish Terrier pup was a terrible hand biter and I found this tip on the internet and it worked perfectly.

    Sit on the floor with the puppy and pour lemon juice onto your hands (peri-peri sauce has also been suggested). Then teaze him with your hands. When he bites you, the taste should repell him. We did this for about a week and he eventually stopped biting hands.

    Perhaps its wortwhile for you to try.

    Leave a comment:


  • EmoAbstracts
    replied
    Originally posted by Rae View Post
    I undoubtedly should have, mhm.

    Luckily, he is adored and loved and I'm willing to work my way through the irresponsibility of the breeder and my original lapse in common sense.

    Edit: Also wanted to add that I'm also fortunate to have a coworker within my office (receptionist for a realty office) who has very much experience, especially in obedience. I'm going to be asking her assistance in the matter since she's been doing shows and training for over twenty years. Wish me luck!
    That sounds like it might be a good option and definitely wish you luck. Just keep in mind that Danes are very, very sensitive creatures...so its important to find the method that will work best for this particular individual. I'm confident you can make this a success!

    Leave a comment:


  • Rae
    replied
    I undoubtedly should have, mhm.

    Luckily, he is adored and loved and I'm willing to work my way through the irresponsibility of the breeder and my original lapse in common sense.

    Edit: Also wanted to add that I'm also fortunate to have a coworker within my office (receptionist for a realty office) who has very much experience, especially in obedience. I'm going to be asking her assistance in the matter since she's been doing shows and training for over twenty years. Wish me luck!
    Last edited by Rae; 03-23-2011, 07:56 PM.

    Leave a comment:


  • EmoAbstracts
    replied
    Originally posted by Greenmagick View Post
    holy crap! You got him at 4 or 5 weeks!!! That is WAY too young and yes is probably the cause of your issues. No breeder that is at all responsible would let a pup go home that early.
    Yeah...that's scary. This is going to be really hard for you to correct with your pup. He has completely missed out on his normal and totally critical development that takes place with his mom and litter mates. This is the time when he learns what it means to play and how NOT to play. If the pup came home with you at 4-5 weeks, I would be surprised if the biting/nipping is the only issue you will have. You really should have ran far away from this breeder.

    BUT - what's done is done. Long story short, this is going to be very hard to correct on your own. You need to start looking into getting professional training (a trainer that works with Great Danes and rescues would be even better - check to see if there is a local/regional Great Dane rescue group that can connect you with a good, trusted trainer) and it is going to take a LOT of time and a LOT of patience.

    This makes me sad to hear, but I do wish you best of luck with working on this. It's not impossible - puppies sometimes lose their mom/litter very early and can be successfully adapted to be well-adjusted...you just have to be committed to success and understand what your puppy will be going through without setting him/you up for failure.

    Leave a comment:


  • Greenmagick
    replied
    holy crap! You got him at 4 or 5 weeks!!! That is WAY too young and yes is probably the cause of your issues. No breeder that is at all responsible would let a pup go home that early.

    Leave a comment:


  • Rae
    replied
    Originally posted by EmoAbstracts View Post
    This breeder didn't happen to be in Lima, Ohio did it?
    No ma'am, she sure wasn't.

    Leave a comment:

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